Aquarium Substrate Calculator
How many pounds of gravel, sand or aquasoil your tank's footprint needs at the depth you are aiming for, and how many bags that comes to.
Last reviewed August 2026 · Free · Nothing you enter is stored
How many pounds of gravel, sand or aquasoil your tank's footprint needs at the depth you are aiming for, and how many bags that comes to.
Last reviewed August 2026 · Free · Nothing you enter is stored
Substrate is sold by the pound, so the useful number is pounds rather than gallons or litres. Getting there takes two steps. The first is geometry: length times width times depth gives the volume the substrate has to fill, and that volume has nothing to do with the height of the tank. The second is density, which is where the material matters. Gravel runs around twelve pounds per gallon of volume, sand fourteen to fifteen because the grains pack tighter, and aquasoil only about ten because the granules are porous and light.
That difference is large enough to change what you buy. The same 48 by 18 inch footprint at two inches deep takes roughly 90 pounds of gravel, 105 pounds of fine sand, or 75 pounds of aquasoil. Sizing by gravel and then switching to sand at the shop leaves you a bag short.
Be aware that real products vary by roughly thirty percent in density, and that variation exists even inside a single manufacturer's own range — a coarse grade and a fine grade of the same branded substrate will not weigh the same per gallon. This is the reason to buy over rather than under. A spare 20-pound bag costs a few dollars; a half-finished aquascape waiting three days for a delivery costs your patience.
Densities are the figures used across substrate calculators, cross-checked against CaribSea's own published pounds-per-cubic-foot data. Real products vary by roughly thirty percent between grain types even within one manufacturer's range, so buy a little over rather than a little under. A plain gravel display wants one to two inches; a planted tank wants two to three so roots have somewhere to go, and more at the back if you are sloping the scape.
One to two inches is right for a plain display tank. It covers the glass, gives the fish a floor that looks like a floor, and stays shallow enough that a gravel siphon reaches the bottom of it easily. There is nothing to gain from more if you are not growing anything.
Two to three inches is the planted range. Roots need somewhere to go, and a stem plant in an inch of gravel spends its life being uprooted every time a fish disturbs it. Carpeting plants want the top of that range or a little more. If you are sloping the substrate, run it deeper at the back and shallower at the front, which gives the tank depth visually and also means the front glass stays clean.
Above about four inches the lower layer starts to be a liability in freshwater. Water movement through a deep bed is very slow, oxygen does not reach the bottom of it, and the layer goes anaerobic. In a heavily planted tank this matters much less because roots carry oxygen down with them, which is why deep beds work in planted tanks and cause trouble in bare ones. If you want depth for the look, plant it or keep something that burrows.
Gravel and sand both arrive coated in dust, and play sand or pool-filter sand arrives coated in a great deal of it. Rinsing means running water through a bucket of it, stirring, pouring the cloudy water off, and repeating until it runs clear. It takes longer than anyone expects and skipping it means a tank that stays milky for several days while the filter slowly clears what you could have removed in twenty minutes.
Aquasoil is the exception, and it is important. Aquasoil is a manufactured clay granule with nutrients baked into it, and washing it breaks the granules down into mud. The result is a permanently cloudy tank and a substrate that has lost the porous structure you paid for. Pour it in dry, fill the tank slowly onto a plate or a bag to avoid disturbing it, and expect some initial cloudiness and an ammonia release for the first couple of weeks while it settles.
This is the one substrate argument with a clear answer rather than a matter of taste. Corydoras, kuhli loaches, geophagus cichlids and other barbelled bottom feeders sift substrate through their gills to find food. Sharp-edged gravel wears their barbels down over months until they are stubs, which affects how the fish feeds for the rest of its life. Sand is genuinely better for these species, and smooth rounded gravel is an acceptable compromise where sand is not practical.
Working the other way, fine sand compacts. A deep bed of it with nothing moving through it develops gas pockets, and disturbing one releases the lot at once. The risk is much overstated for shallow beds and real for deep ones. Keeping fine sand under about three inches, planting it, or keeping malaysian trumpet snails to turn it over continuously all solve the problem.
Crushed coral deserves a specific warning because it is not a neutral choice. It dissolves slowly, raising hardness and buffering pH upward. That is exactly what an African cichlid tank wants and exactly what a soft-water tank of tetras and shrimp does not. Use it deliberately or not at all.
| Substrate | Density | What it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Aquarium gravel (2-5 mm) | 12 lb/gal | The default display substrate. Easy to clean with a siphon, holds root tabs badly, and coarse enough that waste falls between the grains rather than sitting on top. |
| Play or pool-filter sand | 14 lb/gal | Cheap by the bag and the usual choice for corydoras and other bottom dwellers. Needs rinsing thoroughly and will cloud the tank for a day if you rush it. |
| Fine aquarium sand | 15 lb/gal | The finest grain and the best look for a river or biotope scape. Compacts readily, so a deep bed of it wants stirring or a burrowing species to keep it moving. |
| Crushed coral | 13 lb/gal | Raises hardness and buffers pH upward, which suits African cichlids and marine tanks and actively harms soft-water species. Do not use it as a neutral substrate. |
| Planted aquasoil | 10 lb/gal | Made for planted tanks. Nutrient-rich, lowers pH slightly, and breaks down over a few years. Lighter per gallon than gravel or sand, and must not be rinsed. |
Mixing types works better than people assume, provided the heavier material goes on top. Aquasoil capped with a thin layer of sand is a standard planted-tank approach that keeps the nutrients where the roots are and the finer grain where the fish are.
Every gallon of substrate you add is a gallon of water the tank no longer holds. Two inches of gravel across a 75-gallon footprint displaces around eight gallons, and once you add the inch or so of freeboard below the rim the tank holds closer to 62 gallons than 75.
That gap matters at dosing time. Medications, dechlorinator and fertilisers are all measured per gallon of water, not per gallon of tank label, so treating a 75 that actually holds 62 runs every dose about twenty percent strong. For dechlorinator this is irrelevant. For copper-based medication or anything dosed to the millilitre it is the sort of error that kills invertebrates for reasons nobody traces back. Our aquarium volume calculator subtracts your actual substrate depth and fill line and gives you the number to dose against.
Multiply the tank's length by its width by the depth you want, which gives you the volume of substrate rather than the volume of the tank. Convert that to weight using the density of the material — around 12 pounds per gallon for gravel, 14 to 15 for sand, 10 for aquasoil. A standard 48 by 18 inch tank at two inches of gravel needs roughly 90 pounds, or five 20-pound bags.
One to two inches for a plain display, which is enough to hide the glass and give the tank a floor. Two to three inches for a planted tank so roots have somewhere to go, and deeper at the back if you are sloping the scape toward the front. Above about four inches the lower layer can go anaerobic in freshwater unless it is full of plant roots keeping oxygen moving through it.
Rinse gravel and sand, and rinse them more than you think is necessary. Play sand in particular carries a huge amount of fine dust that will turn the water opaque for days. Run water through it in a bucket until it comes out clear. Aquasoil is the exception and must not be rinsed — it is a manufactured clay granule and washing it breaks the granules down into mud, destroying the structure you paid for.
Sand, genuinely, and this is one of the few substrate arguments with a clear answer. Corydoras and other barbelled bottom dwellers feed by sifting substrate through their gills, and sharp gravel wears the barbels down over time until they are stubs. Loaches, kuhli loaches and geophagus cichlids have the same problem. Smooth rounded gravel is a reasonable compromise, but fine sand is what these fish evolved on.
It can. Fine sand compacts, and a deep bed of it with nothing living in it develops pockets where gas builds up. Disturbing one releases the pocket into the water in a single go. This is a real risk rather than a theoretical one, though it is much overstated for shallow beds. Keep fine sand under about three inches, plant it, or keep a burrowing species such as malaysian trumpet snails that turns it over continuously.
Yes, and by more than most people account for. Two inches of gravel in a 75-gallon tank displaces around eight gallons, and combined with the fill line it takes the real water volume down to roughly 62. That matters because every medication, dechlorinator and fertiliser dose is per gallon of water, not per gallon of tank label. Our aquarium volume calculator works out the actual figure once your substrate depth is subtracted.